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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble shop earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.